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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.